
Parco nazionale dei Monti Mahale | Viaggia in Tanzania con Haven Trails…
Parco nazionale dei Monti Mahale | Viaggia in Tanzania con Haven Trails…
You arrive by small aircraft over a landscape that grows progressively wilder with every flight minute west from Dar es Salaam à the dry savanna giving way to miombo woodland, then hills, then the sudden shocking blue of Lake Tanganyika filling the horizon like an inland ocean. L'aereo atterra su una breve pista d'atterraggio erbosa scavata nella foresta. Una barca a motore ti trasporta lungo la costa per novanta minuti, le montagne si innalzano a picco sull'acqua alla tua sinistra e la costa della RDC appare come una nebbiosa macchia blu attraverso il lago a destra. The camp appears around a headland à a handful of timber-and-thatch structures on a white-sand Spiaggia, nestled at the exact boundary where the forest meets the water. Non ci sono altri edifici. There are no roads. Non c'è nulla, in ogni direzione, che non sia del tutto selvaggio.
Mahale Mountains Parco Nazionale covers 1,600 kmà of western Tanzania's most dramatic terrain à the Mahale Mountains chain running northwest to southeast, with its highest peak, Mount Nkungwe, at 2,462 metres above sea level, and its lower western flank dropping steeply through dense rainforest, miombo woodland, bamboo groves, and montane grassland directly to the lake shore. The park was established in 1985 à not through a government initiative, but through the sustained advocacy of a Japanese primatologist named Toshisada Nishida, who had been studying the chimpanzees of these mountains since 1965 and understood better than anyone what would happen to them without formal protection. It is, uniquely, un parco nazionale creato in gran parte grazie agli sforzi di ricercatori stranieri à with financial support from Giappone's International Cooperation Agency à because they had come to know the chimpanzees as individuals and could not allow the forest to be cleared around them.
Today, Mahale holds the largest protected population of eastern chimpanzees in Africa à approximately 800 individuals distributed across the forested mountain slopes. One group of roughly 60 chimpanzees à the M-group, also known as the Mimikire clan à has been habituated to human presence since 1965, the longest-running habituation programme in African primatology. Sono seguiti ogni giorno da ricercatori e tracker. Their movements are known. Their faces are known. Their personalities, rivalries, friendships, and family histories span six decades of documentation. Visitare il gruppo M non significa osservare la fauna selvatica. It is an encounter with known individuals in their own world à and the world's finest such encounter, by the consensus of the international safari community.
E poi, alla fine della passeggiata nel bosco, si ritorna alla spiaggia. Il lago luccica. Le montagne della Repubblica Democratica del Congo si stagliano sulla sponda opposta. Il sole tramonta verso l'orizzonte. E da qualche parte tra gli alberi sopra la linea di galleggiamento, gli scimpanzé stanno costruendo i loro nidi per la notte, i loro richiami si propagano attraverso la foresta fino a dove sei seduto in riva al mare, pensando a cosa significa essere così vicino a qualcosa di così simile a te.
While Jane Goodall's work at Gombe was rewriting western science's understanding of chimpanzees in the early 1960s, on the same lake à 160 kilometres to the south à a parallel revolution was quietly unfolding. In 1961, the Japanese primatologist Kinji Imanishi launched the Kyoto University Africa Primatological Expedition, invio... his students and colleagues to study wild chimpanzees on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. In 1965, a young graduate student named Toshisada Nishida established a research camp at Kasoje, in the forested lowland at the base of what would become Mahale Mountains Parco Nazionale. He would remain connected to this forest, to these mountains, and to these chimpanzees for the rest of his life.
Il metodo di assuefazione di Nishida era innovativo e attentamente progettato. Invece di utilizzare una stazione di alimentazione fissa, ha sviluppato "mobile provisioning" à distributing food at random locations, then announcing the researchers' presence by imitating the chimpanzees' own hooting calls. Gli scimpanzé si avvicinarono e mangiarono; the researchers observed. Because no fixed station was established, the chimpanzees' natural ranging and social patterns remained intact à the data collected was not distorted by the artificial concentration of animals at a single point. Dopo anni di contatto quotidiano con i pazienti, prima il gruppo K e poi il gruppo M hanno accettato i ricercatori giapponesi come una presenza innocua nel loro mondo.
Le scoperte seguite da Mahale andavano in parallelo e allo stesso tempo contraddicevano le scoperte di Gombe in modi che fecero avanzare radicalmente la scienza del comportamento degli scimpanzé. Nishida and his colleagues documented chimpanzees consuming Aspilia leaves à leaves with no nutritional value, swallowed whole without chewing à and correctly proposed that the behaviour was medicinal, the chimpanzees self-treating intestinal parasites with the plant's bioactive compounds. Questa è stata la prima prova documentata dell'uso di piante medicinali da parte di un animale non umano. The Mahale researchers also documented handclasp grooming à a behaviour in which two individuals simultaneously groom each other with one arm raised and hands clasped overhead à which had never been observed at Gombe and was the first evidence that different chimpanzee populations had genuinely different cultural practices, passed between generations by social learning rather than genetics.
When Nishida invited the Gombe researchers William McGrew and Caroline Tutin to Mahale in 1975, the shock of finding behaviours at Mahale that simply did not exist at Gombe à and vice versa à was the moment that the concept of chimpanzee culture was born as a serious scientific proposition. In 1985, after two decades of advocacy, Nishida successfully lobbied the Tanzanian government à with financial support from Giappone's International Cooperation Agency à to gazette Mahale as a national park. È stato il primo parco nazionale della Tanzania designato specificatamente per l'accesso a piedi. In 2008, Nishida and Jane Goodall were jointly awarded the Leakey Prize à the field's highest honour à for their parallel contributions to human evolutionary science. Nishida ha fatto la sua ultima visita a Mahale nell'estate del 2009 ed è morto nel 2011, lasciando un'eredità di ricerca di 60 anni che continua oggi nell'ambito del programma di ricerca dell'Università di Kyoto da lui costruito.
What makes Mahale biologically unique is not just its chimpanzees à it is the extraordinary compression of habitat types across a single mountain system. Da the Spiaggia to the summit, Mahale passes through five distinct ecological zones in under ten kilometres of horizontal distance.
Il censimento della fauna selvatica di Mahale si legge come un inventario dello straordinario. Nine species of primate. Leoni nella stessa foresta degli scimpanzé. Antilope nera e roana nel Miombo. 355 specie di uccelli tra cui il gufo pescatore di Pel. And in the lake, 250 species of cichlid fish à most of them found nowhere else on Earth.
La maggior parte dei campi a Mahale chiude durante le forti piogge di aprile e maggio. Al di fuori di questi mesi, il parco offre qualcosa di diverso in ogni stagione: dagli straordinari incontri della stagione secca, quando gli scimpanzé compaiono sulla spiaggia, alla lussureggiante foresta umida e alle drammatiche tempeste lacustri delle brevi piogge.
The edge of the world is waiting à and the M-group is in the forest. Sentieri del rifugio will handle every complexity of getting you there, so that when the moment comes and the chimpanzees appear through the trees, you are entirely present for it.