
Lake Eyasi en Lake Natron | Tanzania Reizen met Haven Trails Adventures
Tanzania's Noordelijke circuitroute e Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro, the Serengeti e is the most famous safari route in Afrika. Maar aan de rand ervan, grotendeels onbekend bij de drukte die door Arusha trekt, liggen twee bestemmingen die iets bieden wat de beroemde parken van het circuit niet kunnen: het ene is een confrontatie met het oudste menselijke verhaal dat nog steeds wordt geleefd. De andere is een van de meest buitenaardse landschappen ter wereld.
Lake Eyasi and Lake Natron sit within the folds of the same geological system e the Oost-Afrikan Rift Valley e but they could scarcely feel more different. Eyasi ligt verscholen in de hooglandschaduw van de Ngorongoro-helling, een ondiep, rustig zoutmeer waarvan het belang niet in het water ligt, maar in de mensen die ernaast wonen. Natron burns in the open heat of the northern Rift, a vast, caustic expanse that changes colour with the season e from pale pink at the edges to blood red at the centre e and that from the air looks like a wound in the earth rather than a lake.
Samen vertegenwoordigen ze twee aspecten van Tanzania die de standaard safariroute zelden raakt: het menselijke en het geologische. A traveller who visits both in the same journey will leave with two images that no amount of lions and elephants could displace e the sight of a Hadzabe hunter, barefoot and silent, moving through the thorn scrub at dawn with a bow of animal sinew; en de aanblik van de flamingo's op Lake Natron bij het eerste licht, het water de kleur van een wond, de rokende vulkaan achter hen, de Rift Valley-muren die aan alle kanten naar de hemel oprijzen.
Lake Eyasi concurreert niet met de Serengeti. It offers something the Serengeti cannot e a direct encounter with the oldest surviving human story on Earth, in the landscape where that story has unfolded, unchanged, for at least ten thousand years.
The lake itself e a shallow, alkaline salt lake set against the dramatic escarpment of the Eyasi Rift e is beautiful in the way of remote and neglected places. Doum palms line its shores. The water shifts from pale silver to deep blue depending on the light and the season, and in the wet season the flamingos arrive in their pink thousands along its margins. Maar het meer is eigenlijk een decor, geen bestemming. Wat Eyasi buitengewoon maakt, is de menselijke aanwezigheid aan de zuidelijke en zuidwestelijke oevers.
De Hadzabe e also known as the Hadza e are widely regarded as one of the oldest continuously inhabited human populations on Earth. Genetic and archaeological evidence places their ancestors in this Oost-Afrikan region for hundreds of thousands of years, and the click-consonant language they speak bears ancient resemblances to the click languages of the Khoisan peoples of southern Afrika e a linguistic echo of a time, perhaps 100,000 years ago, when human populations were far less geographically separated. Tegenwoordig leven er nog ongeveer 1.000 tot 1.300 Hadzabe-individuen, die in kleine, vloeiende groepen rond de oevers van het Eyasi-meer en in de aangrenzende Yaida-vallei leven.
Ze leven zoals hun voorouders leefden: hunting game with hand-crafted bows of animal sinew and arrows tipped with iron points traded from their Datoga neighbours, gathering wild fruits, tubers, baobab seeds, and honey from the doum palms, and moving camp when the resources of one area are depleted. There is no agriculture, no livestock, no accumulation of property, and no concept of permanent land ownership e only the bush, the season, and the hunt. De Hadzabe hebben geen enkele leider. Decisions are made by consensus, and no adult has authority over any other. They are monogamous, marry within the tribe, keep no records of births or ages, and hold an animist belief system in which the gods of the river, the fire, the trees, the sun, and the spirits of animals are all living presences. Het is, hoe dan ook, een van de meest opmerkelijke en meest kwetsbare menselijke culturen die nog op aarde bestaan.
Naast hen, aan de rand van het meer, wonen de Datoga e a Nilotic people of a completely different tradition. De Datoga zijn semi-nomadische herders met grote trots en buitengewone vaardigheden: specifically, they are blacksmiths of remarkable ability, forging iron tools and weapons from scrap metal using bellows, fire, and techniques passed down through generations. De relatie tussen de Hadzabe en de Datoga is er een van wederzijdse afhankelijkheid. The Hadzabe trade wild honey, game meat, and animal skins to the Datoga; de Datoga voorzien de Hadzabe van de ijzeren pijlpunten die hun jacht mogelijk maken. Het is een ruileconomie van eeuwenoude elegantie, die geheel buiten het moderne monetaire systeem opereert, in de schaduw van de Ngorongoro-helling.
Lake Eyasi is home to two of Tanzania's most distinctive peoples e as different from each other as they are from the rest of the modern world, yet bound together by a barter relationship that has sustained both communities for generations.
Lake Natron looks, at certain times of year, like a wound in the Earth e blood-red, steaming, enclosed by volcanic walls, and ringed with white salt crusts that glow in the afternoon sun. It is also, paradoxically, the most important nursery for a single bird species anywhere in Oost-Afrika.
The lake sits in the Gregory Rift e the eastern branch of the Oost-Afrikan Rift Valley e on Tanzania's border with Kenia, roughly 200 kilometres north of Arusha as the crow flies. It is approximately 57 kilometres long and 22 kilometres wide, but at no point more than three metres deep e a vast, shallow basin that is essentially a concentrate of the Rift Valley's geological identity. Its water has a pH of between 9 and 10.5 e comparable to bleach e and surface temperatures in the shallows around the hot springs that feed the lake's margins can exceed 60 degrees Celsius. Dieren die in het water sterven en op de kust aanspoelen, worden gemummificeerd door de mineraalrijke omgeving, bedekt met frisdrank en trona terwijl hun weefsels verkalken. Photographer Nick Brandt's famous 2013 series of these petrified animals e bats, swallows, flamingos e standing upright on the shore as if frozen in motion, brought Lake Natron's extraordinary character to global attention.
The colour of the water e which shifts from pale pink at the edges to a deep, visceral red at the centre during the dry season e comes from halophilic microorganisms, primarily cyanobacteria of the genus Spirulina. Deze microscopisch kleine organismen vormen de basis van de ecologie van het meer: dit is wat de flamingo's eten. De extreme alkaliteit en hitte van het meer, die vrijwel elk roofdier doden of afstoten, creëren precies de omstandigheden die de kleinere flamingo nodig heeft om zich veilig te kunnen voortplanten. Lake Natron is the only regular breeding site for the lesser flamingo in all of Oost-Afrika e accounting for more than 75% of the entire Oost-Afrikan lesser flamingo population. When between one and two and a half million birds are present on the lake, the aerial bekijken from the escarpment rim shows a lake that is more pink than red e an almost impossibly vivid spectacle that is one of the most extraordinary natural sights in Afrika.
Opstijgend vanaf de zuidelijke oever van het meer, de volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai e 2,962 metres, its perfect conical summit frequently trailing a thin plume of smoke e is one of the most distinctive geological features in Tanzania. In the Maasai language, its name means simply "Mountain of God" e Ol Doinyo Lengai is the dwelling place of Engai, the Maasai creator deity, and its eruptions are interpreted as divine messages. De berg is ook geologisch uniek: it is the only place on Earth where natrocarbonatite lava is produced e a type of lava so rich in sodium and potassium carbonate that it flows at only 500e600eC (roughly half the temperature of conventional basaltic lava), appearing nearly black when it erupts and cooling rapidly to a pale, brittle white crust. De meest recente uitbarsting van de berg vond plaats in 2019. Wetenschappers van over de hele wereld reizen naar Lengai, juist omdat dit fenomeen nergens anders op aarde voorkomt.
Lake Natron is niet alleen een meer om naar te kijken. Its surroundings e volcano, gorge, waterfall, salt flats, ancient footprints, Maasai homesteads e make it one of the most multi-dimensional destinations in all of northern Tanzania.
Beide meren worden vooral bezocht als uitbreiding van het Noordelijke Circuit. Understanding the seasonal character of each helps Havenpaden position your visit at the moment when both offer the most distinctive and rewarding experiences.
Afrika's last hunter-gatherers. Het enige reguliere flamingo-broedmeer ter wereld. The Mountain of God. These are the two experiences that most Noordelijke circuitroute travellers never know they're missing. Let Havenpaden make sure you don't miss them.