
Na rubu svijeta. I najbolji svjetski safari sa čimpanzama. 1600 km² drevne šume koja se uzdiže iz bijele pješčane plaže na jezeru Tanganyika, 800 divljih čimpanza, 60 godina japanske znanosti i jedinstvena razlika jer je to jedino mjesto na Zemlji gdje čimpanze i lavovi dijele istu šumu. Bez cesta. Nema drugih ljudi. Just the sound of the lake and the calls from the trees.
Postoje safari odredišta koja su poznata. There are safari destinations that are beautiful. Mahale je najrjeđa vrsta. A place that is both entirely unknown to most of the world and wholly extraordinary to everyone who finds it. The journey alone tells you that something unusual is coming.
You arrive by small aircraft over a landscape that grows progressively wilder with every flight minute west from Dar es Salaam. Suha savana koja ustupa mjesto šumi miombo, zatim brda, zatim iznenadno šokantno plavetnilo jezera Tanganyika koje ispunjava horizont poput unutarnjeg oceana. The aircraft touches down on a short grass airstrip carved from the forest. Motorni čamac vozi vas duž obale devedeset minuta, planine se uzdižu strmo iz vode s vaše lijeve strane, a obala DRC-a pojavljuje se kao maglovita plava mrlja preko jezera s desne strane. Kamp se pojavljuje oko rta. A handful of timber-and-thatch structures on a white-sand beach, nestled at the exact boundary where the forest meets the water. Nema drugih zgrada. Nema cesta. There is, in every direction, nothing that is not entirely wild.
Mahale Mountains National Park covers 1,600 km² of western Tanzania's most dramatic terrain. Planinski lanac Mahale proteže se od sjeverozapada prema jugoistoku, s najvišim vrhom, planinom Nkungwe, na 2462 metra nadmorske visine i nižim zapadnim rubom koji se strmo spušta kroz gustu prašumu, šumu miomba, bambusove šumarke i planinske travnjake izravno do obale jezera. Park je osnovan 1985. Ne putem vladine inicijative, već kroz kontinuirano zagovaranje japanskog primatologa po imenu Toshisada Nishida, koji je proučavao čimpanze ovih planina od 1965. i razumio je bolje od ikoga što bi im se dogodilo bez formalne zaštite. It is, uniquely, a national park that was created largely through the efforts of overseas researchers. With financial support from Japan's International Cooperation Agency. Because they had come to know the chimpanzees as individuals and could not allow the forest to be cleared around them.
Today, Mahale holds the largest protected population of eastern chimpanzees in Africa. Approximately 800 individuals distributed across the forested mountain slopes. Jedna grupa od otprilike 60 čimpanza. M-skupina, također poznata kao klan Mimikire. Has been habituated to human presence since 1965, the longest-running habituation programme in African primatology. They are followed by researchers and trackers every single day. Poznato im je kretanje. Poznata su im lica. Their personalities, rivalries, friendships and family histories span six decades of documentation. Posjet M-skupini nije promatranje divljih životinja. It is an encounter with known individuals in their own world. And the world's finest such encounter, by the consensus of the international safari community.
And then, at the end of the forest walk, you return to the beach. Jezero blista. The DRC mountains are silhouettes on the far shore. Sunce se spušta prema horizontu. A negdje na drveću iznad vodene linije, čimpanze grade svoja gnijezda za noć, njihovi zvici se prenose kroz šumu do mjesta gdje sjedite na rubu vode, razmišljajući o tome što znači biti tako blizu nečega što vam je tako slično.
While Jane Goodall's work at Gombe was rewriting western science's understanding of chimpanzees in the early 1960s, on the same lake. 160 kilometara južno. Tiho se odvijala paralelna revolucija. Godine 1961. japanski primatolog Kinji Imanishi pokrenuo je Afričku primatološku ekspediciju Sveučilišta Kyoto, poslavši svoje studente i kolege da proučavaju divlje čimpanze na obalama jezera Tanganyika. Godine 1965. mladi diplomirani student po imenu Toshisada Nishida osnovao je istraživački kamp u Kasojeu, u šumovitoj nizini u podnožju onoga što će postati nacionalni park Mahale Mountains. He would remain connected to this forest, to these mountains and to these chimpanzees for the rest of his life.
Nishida's method of habituation was innovative and carefully designed. Rather than using a fixed feeding station, he developed "mobile provisioning". Distributing food at random locations, then announcing the researchers' presence by imitating the chimpanzees' own hooting calls. Čimpanze su prišle i jele; promatrali su istraživači. Because no fixed station was established, the chimpanzees' natural ranging and social patterns remained intact. The data collected was not distorted by the artificial concentration of animals at a single point. Tijekom godina svakodnevnog kontakta s pacijentima, prvo K-skupina, a potom i M-skupina prihvatile su japanske istraživače kao bezopasnu prisutnost u njihovom svijetu.
Otkrića koja su uslijedila nakon Mahalea bila su usporedna i proturječna Gombeovim nalazima na načine koji su temeljno unaprijedili znanost o ponašanju čimpanza. Nishida and his colleagues documented chimpanzees consuming Aspilia leaves. Leaves with no nutritional value, swallowed whole without chewing. I ispravno je predložio da je ponašanje bilo ljekovito, čimpanze same liječe crijevne parazite bioaktivnim spojevima biljke. This was the first documented evidence of medicinal plant use by any non-human animal. The Mahale researchers also documented handclasp grooming. A behaviour in which two individuals simultaneously groom each other with one arm raised and hands clasped overhead. Što nikada nije primijećeno u Gombeu i bio je prvi dokaz da su različite populacije čimpanza imale istinski različite kulturne prakse, koje su se prenosile s generacije na generaciju društvenim učenjem, a ne genetikom.
Kada je Nishida pozvao istraživače iz Gombea, Williama McGrewa i Caroline Tutin u Mahale 1975., bio je šok otkrića ponašanja u Mahaleu koja jednostavno nisu postojala u Gombeu. I obrnuto. Was the moment that the concept of chimpanzee culture was born as a serious scientific proposition. In 1985, after two decades of advocacy, Nishida successfully lobbied the Tanzanian government. With financial support from Japan's International Cooperation Agency. Glasniku Mahale kao nacionalni park. It was the first national park in Tanzania designated specifically for foot-based access. In 2008, Nishida and Jane Goodall were jointly awarded the Leakey Prize. Najveća čast na terenu. For their parallel contributions to human evolutionary science. Nishida je posljednji put posjetio Mahale u ljeto 2009. i preminuo je 2011., ostavljajući 60-godišnje istraživačko nasljeđe koje se nastavlja i danas u okviru istraživačkog programa Sveučilišta Kyoto koji je izgradio.
What makes Mahale biologically unique is not just its chimpanzees. It is the extraordinary compression of habitat types across a single mountain system. From the beach to the summit, Mahale passes through five distinct ecological zones in under ten kilometres of horizontal distance.
Mahale's wildlife census reads like an inventory of the extraordinary. Devet vrsta primata. Lavovi u istoj šumi kao i čimpanze. Sable i roan antilopa u Miombu. 355 bird species including the Pel's fishing owl. A u jezeru 250 vrsta riba ciklida. Većina ih se ne može naći nigdje drugdje na Zemlji.
Most camps at Mahale close during the heavy rains of April and May. Outside these months, the park offers something different in every season. Od izvanrednih susreta u sušnoj sezoni kada se čimpanze pojave na plaži, do bujne vlažne šume i dramatičnih jezerskih oluja s kratkim kišama.
Rub svijeta čeka. I M-skupina je u šumi. Haven Trails će se nositi sa svakom složenošću vašeg dolaska tamo, tako da kada dođe trenutak i čimpanze se pojave kroz drveće, vi ste potpuno prisutni.